The Form of Oriental Dress Depicted on the 20th Century Western Fashion(I) -Selected from Vogue-

Original Article

Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association 1991;29(1):1-12.

논문편 : 20세기 서양 패션에 나타난 동양 복식의 형태미에 관한 연구 (1) - 보그 ( Vogue ) 지를 중심으로 -

김윤희

전주 기전여자전문대학

The Form of Oriental Dress Depicted on the 20th Century Western Fashion(I) -Selected from Vogue-

김윤희

ABSTRACT

The purpose of this study was to identify external form and internal symbolism of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion. Documentary studies and objective studies were done with descriptive, inductive and content analytic methods. In documentary research, concepts about culture, dress as a cultural sub-system, the from of dress, and the gender symbolism of dress were reviewed. In objective research, oriental fashion photographs in 「Vogue」 during 1969-1989 were selected and analyzed, for the descriptions of samples, the form of dress, the perception of waist parts, the dressing manner. The synthetic results were as followes; 1. There were the geographical and national terms such as east, Orient, China, India, Japan, and so on in the descriptions of samples; and there were the costume terms such as herem, kimono, pyjama or pajama, sarong, and so on in the descriptions of samples. 2. The from of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion was identified with draped type. This can be interpreted that in orient, there was no desire to reveal body figure through dress, therefore, for the long time, sustaining draped type of dress has been. 3. The perception of waist part in oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion was not made. So, it can be interpreted that in orient, there was no desire to distinguish both sexes through the emphasis of waist part in dress. 4. The dressing manners of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion were wearing of trouser and layering mainly, symbolizing the confusion of gender distinction through dress.