Study on Traditional Mourning Clothing through Actual Clothing Making - Focused on Manufacturing the Modern Mourning Clothing in Gwangju and Saryepyellam -

Original Article

Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association 2006;44(2):49-59.

실물제작을 통한 전통상복 연구 -광주지역 현대상복과 사례편람 상복제작법을 중심으로-

Eun-Jung Kim

Department of clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University

ABSTRACT

Mourning culture has tended to be reduced to mere empty formalities with more simplified regulations. Changes in modern life style make it difficult to perform extended mourning ceremonies and the venues for mourning ceremony have shifted from private homes to chapels of rest in hospitals or Funeral Homes. Mourning clothing, the symbol of filial duty, has gradually been changed in shape. The study purposes were to research in the shapes of modern mourning clothing through field study on mourning clothing manufacturers and to compare traditional mourning clothing with the modern varieties through the actual making of traditional male mourning clothing based on old regulations. The study of mourning clothing through actual making prevents transformation and provides practical research data. The study methods were inquiry into old documents, field study, and actual clothing making. The study results are as follows. First, in terms of shape, traditional and modern mourning clothing are different in Garyeong, Lim and Daehacheok of Choiui. In case of Choisang, traditional clothing has one central plait in its front and rear sides while modern clothing one has 3 single plaits in each side. Second, in terms of sewing, traditional mourning clothing leaves an exterior margin to sew up in Choiui and an internal one in Choisang. However, modern mourning clothing has various types of sewing and plaits depending on the manufacturers and all sewing is done by machine. Third, in terms of material, traditional mourning clothing is made of Korean hemp and features narrow width, while modern clothing is made of Chinese hemp and features broad width.

Keywords: 전통상복, Mouming Clothing, 최의, Choiui, 최상, Choisang