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Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association 2003;41(1):249-257.
자초 뿌리를 이용한 직물의 염색에 관한 연구
The Fabrics Dyeing using Gromwell Roots
안경조, 김정희, 유혜자
가톨릭대학교 생활과학대학 의류학과,가톨릭대학교 생활과학대학 의류학과,서원대학교 의류직물학과
ABSTRACT
For the efficiency in extracting gromwell colorant, methanol, ethanol and aceton were used as solvents. Also, to compare the results when dyed in various conditions and on various fabrics, the ratio of water-dye mixture, pH, temperature, and varieties of fabrics -wool, silk, cotton, nylon, ramie- were selected. L, a, b, ΔE, munsell and K/S value of each sample was measured and compared for the practical use. Water-dye mixture of 5:5 ratio showed the optimum dyeability. Not to mention wool and silk, but also cotton showed a satisfying dying result at the acidity of pH4. As the temperature increased, the dyeability of all three fabrics improved greatly. Especially, wool showed the highest improvement in terms of dyeability as the temperature increased. K/S values for wool and nylon showed superior results to the others in the gromwell colorant. The resulting color turned out somewhat different depending on the solvents used and the sort of fabric that was tested on. When the gromwell colorant extracted with methanol or ethanol was applied, the color of fabrics came out as purple or purpleblue. When the colorant extracted with acetone was used, the color of fabrics came out to be redpurple. The colorfastness to light showed low glades regardless to whichever solvents were used. The grades of colorfastness to laundering were recorded low numerical values, and its record became even lower when the gromwell colorant extracted with aceton was applied. The staining grade of the colorfastness to laundering showed a good grade in the range of 4 to 5. All the dyed fabrics showed a excellent drycleaning fastness.
Keywords: 자초, gromwell, 시코닌, shikonin, 색차, color difference, K/S값(K/S value), 용제 추출, extraction with solvent
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Fabric Dyeing Using Anthocyan Pigment from Grape Skin  2000 November;38(11)
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